Kota Kinabalu is the gateway to northern Borneo and a popular destination for local and international visitors. The capital of Sabah is especially blessed with a wealth of nature-based attractions within 1-2 hours of the city. For birdwatchers, birding hotspots such as Kinabalu Park and Gunung Alab are easily accessible from the city. On top of that, the city itself contains several decent birdwatching locations. Therefore, birdwatching at Kota Kinabalu should definitely be on the itinerary for any birders visiting this vibrant city.
Birdwatching at Kota Kinabalu – Part 2
Part 1 of this article series highlighted the Kota Kinabalu Wetland Centre, Likas Wetlands, Tanjung Aru beach and Lok Kawi beach. This article will focus on the Penampang Paddyfields and Inobong Substation.
The locations described in this article are all located near the Kota Kinabalu metropolitan area. The information and photos provided mainly come from my experience visiting these locations in September 2024. The main reference material used is the excellent Phillips’ Field Guide to the Birds of Borneo, the Birds of Malaysia by Lynx Edicions, and eBird
1) Birdwatching at Kota Kinabalu – Penampang Paddyfields
This spot is an area of paddyfields south of the city centre. This area was once undoubtedly part of a much larger paddyfield. However, over the years, it has shrunk as urban development increased due to the city’s expanding population.
Currently (2024), it’s still home to a surprising number of birds and remains a decent spot for birdwatching at Kota Kinabalu. Nevertheless, as development continues, it remains to be seen how long this area will remain a viable birding spot.
Birds that can be seen here:
- Wandering Whistling-Duck – Usually seen flying over the paddyfields. They’re usually hidden amongst the grass when they alight.
- Migrant shorebirds such as the Common Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper and Little Ringed Plover
- A variety of Egrets, Herons and Bitterns. For example, the Cinnamon Bittern is common here.
- The buff-banded Rail is a relatively recent immigrant that is expanding throughout Sabah. It is apparently not as shy as other rails.
- Common Moorhen and Black-backed Swamphen
- Long-tailed Shrike – a beautiful resident shrike
- Striated Grassbird – another relatively recent immigrant. It’s common around Sabah and is especially easy to see here.
- Java Sparrow and Red Avadavat are exotic species with established populations around Kota Kinabalu. However, the Red Avadavat is rather uncommon here.
- Dusky Munia – Bornean endemic. Not as numerous as the Chestnut or Scaly-breasted Munias
Getting here
Self-drive:
For navigation apps, search for ‘Penampang Paddy Fields’. It’s roughly 10 km from KK city centre, and the journey time is about 20 minutes (depending on traffic).
Of note, the paddyfields are only 4.5 km away from the airport (10 minutes journey). Therefore, this spot is particularly suitable for those waiting for a flight later in the day. Head to the paddyfields for a morning or afternoon birding session, then go to the airport afterwards. Indeed, we used the same itinerary during our recent visit!
Public transport:
You can probably get an e-hailing or taxi here, but they’ll likely drop you off along a main road. Additionally, getting back out might be tricky (there are no pickup points within the fields). You might have to walk to a main road for an e-hailing or taxi to pick you up.
Birding here
Birding here is straightforward. The main central path is a dirt/gravel road, but it is traversable by any car. There are areas wide enough to park while you walk and explore the other parts. Several plots of the paddyfields to the west are wetter – you may encounter more waterbirds there. Scan the fields carefully, and you might spot the Red Avadavat, waterbirds, migrant warblers or the Buff-banded Rail.
Best birding time?
- Migratory species are present during the northern winter, from September until April.
- Early mornings and afternoons are best. Take note that sunrise is around 6 am, and sunset is around 6 pm.
Public facilities
No public facilities or shops are present on-site. Commercial shop lots are along the main road to the city (Jalan Pintas Penampang). The ITCC shopping mall is 4.5 km away.
2) Birdwatching at Kota Kinabalu – Inobong Substation
Inobong Substation is one of the many access points to the sprawling Crocker Range Park and the nearest Kota Kinabalu. It’s located at an altitude of roughly 500m and is popular with hikers and campers looking to escape the city’s hustle and bustle. This spot also offers a magnificent view of Kota Kinabalu and the surrounding islands.
For visiting birdwatchers, this spot is ideal as a first birding spot before exploring other birding locations around Sabah. It is also great for those with only half a day to spare. Despite being a lesser-known location for birdwatching at Kota Kinabalu, Inobong Substation is worth checking out.
Birds that can be seen here:
The list below is non-exhaustive
- Crested Serpent-Eagle
- Bornean Banded Kingfisher – Attractively plumaged forest kingfisher that’s endemic to Borneo. Its wailing calls are often the first sign of its presence.
- Red-bearded Bee-eater
- Scarlet-rumped Trogon
- Gold-whiskered Barbet
- Black-and-yellow Broadbill
- Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler
- White-crowned Shama – Bornean endemic
- Temminck’s Sunbird
Getting here
Search for ‘Inobong Substation, Crocker Range Park’ on Google Maps. It’s about 23 km southeast of the city centre. Journey time is approximately 50 mins, depending on traffic. Be aware that the path may take you along some newly constructed roads, making it confusing in parts. Also, the final section of the journey is mostly on gravel roads but is still traversable by car.
Unfortunately, e-hailing or taxis will unlikely take you to this spot, as it’s instead ‘out-of-the-way’.
Admission fees and opening times:
- RM 6 (Malaysians above 18) – cashless payment methods only
- RM 20 (non-Malaysians above 18) – cashless payment methods only
- Open from 8 am until 5 pm
Birding here:
The birding areas are within 1 km of the entrance gate. Be aware that the road leading to the viewpoint is rather steep and thus may not be suitable for everyone. The trogon, bee-eater, and kingfisher may be encountered at the flat section just after the gate and as the road starts to climb up.
Best birding time?
From opening until mid-morning. Unfortunately, the park only opens at 8 am, 2 hours after sunrise. Therefore, there is no early morning birding here. Nevertheless, plenty of birds should still be around until about 10 – 11 am. Two hours is plenty generous for this location.
Not much birding can be done outside the gates – the forest is somewhat degraded there.
Public facilities:
- Public facilities (such as toilets) are on-site. A small cafe is just outside the entrance gate.
- A car park is available after the entrance gate.
- A viewpoint with an information board and gazebo at the peak.
- Camping sites and hiking trails that go further into the park.
Other birdwatching locations around Kota Kinabalu:
- Tun Fuad Stephens Park (closed for renovations until September 2024) – for the Sunda Frogmouth.
- Manukan Island – for the Philippine Megapode and Mangrove Whistler.
Conclusion
Penampang Paddyfields and Inobong Substation are good spots for birdwatching at Kota Kinabalu. These locations offer a surprising diversity of birds, including several Bornean endemics. Moreover, they’re conveniently located near/within the city’s metropolitan area. Therefore, birdwatching here is perfect for those on short visits or those on stopovers while en route to other destinations in Sabah.
REFERENCES
Phillipps, Q. & Phillipps, K. (2014). Phillips’ Field Guide To The Birds of Borneo. Sabah, Sarawak, Brunei and Kalimantan (Third edition). John Beaufoy Publishing, Oxford, England.
Puan, C.L., Davison, G. & Lim, K.C. (2020). Birds of Malaysia. Covering Peninsular Malaysia, Malaysian Borneo and Singapore. Lynx and BirdLife International Field Guides. Lynx Edicions, Barcelona.
