Kota Kinabalu is blessed with a variety of nearby birding locations, and birdwatching at Gunung Alab Substation is a great example (Gunung is the Malay word for mountain). The substation is located within the pristine Crocker Range Park and provides a visiting birdwatcher with a fantastic place to see montane species, including several Bornean endemics.
I had the pleasure of visiting the substation in July 2023 (the last day of a four-day trip to Kota Kinabalu). This article aims to provide a snapshot of my experience birding there and information for any birder wishing to visit this delightful place.
Throughout this article, bird names highlighted in bold is a Bornean endemic. This means that the species can only be found in Borneo.
Birdwatching at Gunung Alab Substation – Trip report
In July 2023, David Jr and I had the pleasure of birdwatching at Gunung Alab Substation, accompanied by Mr. Roger Rajah, a highly experienced and well-respected local birder. We departed Kota Kinabalu at 5 a.m. and arrived at around 7:30 a.m. We were fortunate that the weather was beautifully sunny with clear blue skies. At this altitude, the temperature was chilly! It didn’t take long for us to start noticing birds, as the cheerful songs alerted us to their presence.
First up is a drab but cute little bird with a distinctive song: the Sunda Bush Warbler (sometimes treated as a subspecies of the Aberrant Bush Warbler). Several birds sang cheerfully amongst the roadside vegetation, skulking in the shadows and only coming out occasionally. It took us a few minutes to see one in the open, but one eventually obliged, giving us great views!
Other montane species seen at Gunung Alab Substation
Further, along the path, we encountered more of Borneo’s typical montane residents, including the Bornean Whistler, Yellow-breasted Warbler, and the ubiquitous Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush. Additionally, the melodic song of the Mountain Tailorbird accompanied us throughout. These are all common mountain birds; nevertheless, I was more than happy to see them.
The telecommunications tower is at the end of the path, which is fenced and off-limits to the public. However, there is a small hut nearby where the birds have become habituated with people, allowing great views.
Indeed, we saw the Little Pied Flycatcher, the White-throated Fantail, and more laughingthrushes there, all very close by. Nearby, we spotted the Little Cuckoo-Dove, the Indigo Flycatcher and scores of Plume-toed Swiftlets nesting at the telecom building. According to Mr. Roger, the Bornean Treepie and the Sunda Laughingthrush are also regulars here.
Lifer No. 1!
On a nearby tree, I encountered my first lifer of the day: the Bornean Leafbird! This bird had eluded me during my previous trips to Kinabalu NP; obviously, I was delighted! The bird looked similar to the Blue-winged Leafbird that I’m familiar with; however, in this species, the female also has a black throat.
The Bornean Leafbird is only found in the highlands of north-central Borneo and has a fitting scientific name: Chloropsis kinabaluensis. Ironically, I have yet to see it at Kinabalu itself!
Unfortunately, I was unable to get a decent photo of it. Head over to the species’ eBird page for more info and photos.
The Crimson-headed Partridge
The loud and unmistakable call of the Crimson-headed Partridge beckons us from another telecom building nearby. We followed a short trail and spotted a pair of these magnificent birds. They were foraging among the dark and dense understory; therefore, we didn’t get the best views. However, it was more than enough to appreciate these gorgeous mountain denizens.
These chicken-like birds are aptly named: the head is strikingly crimson-red, contrasting nicely with a dark grey body. This species is only found in Borneo’s north-central highlands and can be reasonably common in certain areas. However, their skulking nature makes them far more likely to be heard than seen.
Check out its eBird page and Wikipedia article for more information on this fascinating bird.
Second lifer
Heading back to the car park, we stumbled upon a birdwave. Like those I’ve seen at Kinabalu, this bird wave had Hair-crested Drongos, Bornean Treepies, and the usual small birds. A Mountain Imperial-Pigeon and two Checker-throated Woodpeckers were also spotted nearby.
Suddenly, I spotted something different amongst the leaves: a Mountain Black-eye! This upper-montane specialist eluded me at Timpohon Gate in 2019. Needless to say, I was overjoyed! The Black-eye is a Bornean endemic species found only on the highest mountains. While relatively common at the higher elevations in Kinabalu, this bird is not as easy to see at lower elevations; therefore, seeing one is fantastic. A quick check on eBird seems to indicate Gunung Alab Substation is an excellent location to see this high-altitude species.
This bird is dark green, with a red bill and a black patch surrounding its eyes (makes it look like it had been punched in the face!). Just like the leafbird earlier, I failed to get a good photo of this bird. Check out the eBird page for more information and pictures.
Back to Kota Kinabalu
The Black-eye was the perfect ending to a great day and the Kota Kinabalu trip as a whole. Before returning, we stopped at the nearby Gunung Alab Restaurant for some delicious cakes. While there, I quickly checked the building walls for the elusive Bornean Swiftlet amongst the throngs of Plume-toed Swiftlets. Sadly, there were none. Nevertheless, the half-day birding trip was successful and enjoyable.
We departed Gunung Alab at 12 noon, and by 3 pm, we were already at the airport waiting for our flight to Kuala Lumpur!
Information on Birdwatching at Gunung Alab Substation
How to get to the Substation?
Access to Gunung Alab Substation is easy. It is located around 60 km from Kota Kinabalu city centre, along the main Penampang to Tambunan road (State Route 500). The road up is quite winding; drive time is around 2 hours. The road condition is decent (as of July 2023). From Kota Kinabalu, the road signages are adequate; nevertheless, your best bet is to use a navigation app to get there.
Public transport (minivans) are available on the Kota Kinabalu to Tambunan route; however, for birders, the only practical way to reach the substation is via your own/rented vehicle. A taxi charter is possible but would be much more expensive.
Where is the Substation?
The substation is located at an elevation of approximately 1850 – 2000 m above sea level (higher than Timpohon Gate at Kinabalu NP). It is part of the Crocker Range Park, a massive protected area covering the mountainous Crocker Range located south of Kota Kinabalu. The Park spans from Gunung Alab in the north down to Tenom in the south.
This park has several access points; the most popular for birdwatching are Gunung Alab Substation, the Rafflesia Centre, and the Crocker Range National Park HQ.
How is the birding experience at Gunung Alab Substation?
Birding at Gunung Alab is straightforward. There is only a single path from the entrance/car park going to the telecom tower, so you’re unlikely to get lost. The birding path is about 1 km long and easy to follow, with only a gently sloping uphill incline at the far end. The trail follows the mountain ridge top and is flanked by upper-montane forests on both sides. Combined with the cool climate, this makes for a relaxed birding experience.
Birds can be spotted all along the road; nevertheless, during my visit, there were more birds at the telecom tower and the entrance areas (your experience may differ).
It is important to note that mountain weather can be fickle. Mist/clouds roll in frequently, even on otherwise clear days. Bring along clothing to keep warm and dry and waterproof gear (i.e., dry bag, raincoat).
What birds can be seen there?
In addition to the birds described in the trip report previously, you can also find the following species at Gunung Alab Substation (as before, species highlighted in bold are Bornean endemics):
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- Mountain Leaf Warbler
- Golden-naped Barbet – listen out for its distinctive calls.
- Snowy-browed Flycatcher
- Temminck’s Sunbird – a startlingly red sunbird, quite common in Borneo.
- Black-sided Flowerpecker
- Chestnut-crested Yuhina – a small, active bird that is very common in the Bornean mountains.
- Sunda Laughingthrush – this species often accompanies the Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush.
- White-browed Shrike-Babbler
- Sunda Cuckooshrike
- Grey-chinned Minivet
This male Snowy-browed Flycatcher was not shy and perched there for a long period.
Additionally, look out for other Bornean highland specialities such as:
- Red-breasted Partridge – this is an excellent place to see this otherwise shy species.
- Fruithunter – a unique Bornean endemic thrush.
- Bornean Shortwing – this species was recently split from the White-browed Shortwing.
- Bornean Bulbul – a comely bulbul with a spiffy crest.
- Penan Bulbul – a new species recently split from the Ochraceous Bulbul.
- Pale-faced Bulbul – sometimes treated as a subspecies of Flavescent Bulbul, this bird looks like the ubiquitous Yellow-vented Bulbul but without the black eye stripe.
- Bornean Swiftlet – this species is tricky to differentiate from the much more common Plume-toed Swiftlet.
- Mountain Serpent-Eagle – a relative of the familiar Crested Serpent-Eagle. It looks very similar but has different calls and habitat preferences. This raptor can only be found in the highlands of North Borneo.
Public Facilities at Gunung Alab Substation
The entrance area is quite well kept, with a car park, camping site, ranger station, and several small gardens. There is a clean public toilet present. There is a RM 6 entrance fee for Malaysians and RM 20 for foreign visitors (adults). The fee is valid for one day.
Update January 2025: It seems that there is a recent change to this entrance fee, that is yet to be published officially. Kindly enquire at the ranger station before proceeding to the telecom towers.
Accommodation is available for those wishing to stay overnight; however, this is limited to a couple of chalets and a small hostel. Alternatively, visitors can make use of the aforementioned campsites.
As mentioned, the Gunung Alab Restaurant is nearby (opposite the junction from the main road into the park). Aside from the delicious cakes, the restaurant serves decent hot food/drinks. It is open daily from 7 am to 8 pm.
Anything else other than birds?
Several gardens around the area showcase the native flora of the area, which is stunning. A bewildering array of ferns, mosses, nepenthes, orchids, trees and shrubs will surely excite plant lovers. Moreover, the Rafflesia Information Centre is only 7 km away by road.
For those with a more adventurous disposition, there is a waterfall nearby that you can visit by following a jungle trail (about 1.5 km). If you wish to do so, please check in at the Ranger office beforehand.
Finally, many visitors come to Gunung Alab to enjoy the fresh air, cool temperatures and stunning views.
Take your time to appreciate and enjoy the biodiversity found at the substation; undeniably, it’ll be worth it.
Additional information and links
For more information on Gunung Alab Substation and the Crocker Range Park, visit the following links:
- Crocker Range Park webpage on the official website of Sabah Parks. This website has more information on visiting Gunung Alab and the Crocker Range Park, such as entrance fees, permits, etc. You can also download the official brochure from the website.
- List species that may be found while birdwatching at Gunung Alab Substation via eBird. Take note that this list isn’t entirely accurate.
Head over to the links below for information on other birdwatching locations near the Kota Kinabalu area:
Conclusion
Birdwatching at Gunung Alab Substation is a great way to see upper-montane species and serves as an alternative birding location to Kinabalu Park. Located about 2 hours drive from Kota Kinabalu, this is an excellent place to spend half-a-day birding. This close proximity makes it perfect for those with limited time or otherwise unable to travel far.
I look forward to revisiting this place in the future to explore its biodiversity further and hopefully tick another Bornean mountain endemic off the list!
References:
Phillipps, Q. & Phillipps, K. (2014). Phillips’ Field Guide To The Birds of Borneo. Sabah, Sarawak, Brunei and Kalimantan (Third edition). John Beaufoy Publishing, Oxford, England.
Puan, C.L., Davison, G. & Lim, K.C. (2020). Birds of Malaysia. Covering Peninsular Malaysia, Malaysian Borneo and Singapore. Lynx and BirdLife International Field Guides. Lynx Edicions, Barcelona.
Thanks for another interesting article. I always look forward to your posts.
Thank you for the kind words! I hope the article will be of benefit should you ever get the chance to visit Gunung Alab.