Kinabalu Park is a fantastic birdwatching location. This World Heritage Site is famous globally for its rich and unique biodiversity, hosting many species not found anywhere else in the world including many highly sought-after Bornean endemic birds. Birders come from across the globe to see these unique species for themselves. Undoubtedly, birdwatching at Kinabalu Park is something not to be missed.

Thankfully, Kinabalu Park is easily accessible. This article aims to provide birdwatching information for visiting birders, especially first timers and independent travellers. 

For general information on visiting Kinabalu park HQ, click on the following link:

Birdwatching at Kinabalu Park HQ – Part 2: General information

Birdwatching at Kinabalu Park HQ – Part 1: Birdwatching information

Kinabalu National Park is a massive protected area covering Mount Kinabalu itself as well as the surrounding areas. There are several entrances to the park, but for visiting birdwatchers the most relevant locations are Kinabalu Park Headquarters (KPHQ), Poring Hot Springs and Sayap Substation. This article focuses on birdwatching at the KPHQ area, including Timpohon Gate. Hopefully, I’ll write an article on the other two sites when I have the chance to visit them.

The information and photos provided in this article is mainly based on my visits to KPHQ in 2019 and 2023. The main reference material used is the excellent Phillips’ Field Guide to the Birds of Borneo. Throughout this article, bird names in bold indicate Bornean endemic species.

Introduction to Kinabalu Park HQ

Kinabalu Park is one of the oldest National Parks in Malaysia. It has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. Kinabalu Park is also part of the larger Kinabalu Geopark, which was recently declared a ‘UNESCO Global Geopark’ in May 2023. The park encompasses the imposing Mount Kinabalu, and is located at the northernmost reaches of the Crocker Range.

Kinabalu Park HQ is the main entry point for the park. It’s approximately 90 km from Kota Kinabalu, roughly 1500 m above sea level (asl). Many visitors to KPHQ are climbers looking to summit the mountain. Nevertheless, plenty of people visit KPHQ to experience its dazzling biodiversity, enjoy the scenery and revel in the cool climate.

For birders, birdwatching at Kinabalu Park provides an easily accessible location to see many Bornean endemic species. The park HQ has excellent facilities, as well as a range of accommodation options nearby.

How is the birdwatching experience at Kinabalu Park HQ?

Bird encounters at Kinabalu Park HQ

Typical bird encounters here are small groups, pairs or single birds. However,  you’ll frequently encounter mixed-species flocks – the so-called ‘bird waves’. A large bird wave can be very exciting as you try to identify as many species as possible, while birds are zooming all around you! 

I find the bird waves at KPHQ slightly different from the ones at Fraser’s Hill. The bird waves at KPHQ often involve good-sized birds (at Fraser’s, the birds involved are usually the small ones). For example, Hair-crested Drongo, Bornean Treepie, Bornean Green-Magpie, Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush and the Sunda Laughingthrush often ‘bird wave’ together. Examine these waves closely, as some may contain rarer species, such as the Bare-headed Laughingthrush.

The best time for birdwatching at Kinabalu Park HQ is early to mid-morning and afternoon (weather permitting). From my experience, 1 pm to 3 pm is the least productive (your experience may differ). Please note that sunrise at Kinabalu is around 6 am.

Take note that there are no bird feeding stations within the park HQ area.

Birdwatching along the roads

The HQ area is quite compact; therefore, you can simply walk around looking for birds at your own pace. The roads are paved, and easy to follow. There is only one main road from the entrance going to Timpohon Gate (a.k.a Power Station Road). There is also a one-way road loop near the entrance area.

For the most part, there are no steep ascents or descents, as long as you keep to the paved road. The only steep part is about midway to Timpohon Gate; nevertheless, it’s still relatively undemanding.

For most birders, walking the roads around the park HQ is adequate to see most of the species at KPHQ. Of particular note is the 1 km stretch of the main road from the Liwagu Restaurant towards Timpohon Gate. This is the usual area to see the Whitehead’s Trogon and Whitehead’s Broadbill. At the end of this 1 km stretch, there is a gazebo (named Silau-Silau), and entrances to the Silau-Silau and Kiau View trails.

Finally, please be mindful of road traffic while birding along the roads. There are, surprisingly, a decent amount of traffic traversing the main roads. These are usually tour vehicles or shuttle vans to ferry climbers from the entrance to Timpohon Gate.

Birdwatching along  jungle trails

For those wishing for a bit more adventure, the area is well connected by several jungle trails. These trails are signposted, and are reasonably well-kept. Nevertheless, it’s still a good idea to avoid walking the trails alone, and/or inform someone of your intentions beforehand.

The easiest and most popular trail is the Silau-Silau trail. This trail is about 3 km long, and runs parallel to the power station road. The Silau-Silau stream crosses the trail at several sections. This is one of the better trails for birdwatching at Kinabalu Park.

TIP: Walk up the main road for about 1.5 km, until you see the Silau-Silau gazebo and trail entrance. Then head back to the HQ via the Silau-Silau trail. Heading downhill on the trail is much easier than uphill.

Some other trails at KPHQ:

• Liwagu trail (the longest; about 5.6km. You can just explore the section of the trail nearest to the HQ, instead of the whole trail).
• Kiau View Trail (has some steep sections).
• Pandanus Trail 
• Bukit Ular Trail (Located near Timpohon Gate, apparently one of the best trails for the Everett’s Thrush) 

While none of these trails are hardcore, some do have steep ascents/descents. Therefore, make sure you’re of reasonable physical condition before you attempt the more challenging ones.

Pick up the trail map from the park office near the entrance before heading out. Alternatively, navigate using a mobile app such as Komoot.

Weather at KPHQ

Mountain weather can be temperamental. Mist/ rain clouds roll in frequently, even on otherwise clear days. Temperatures at the HQ area range from 15 – 24℃.

Don’t forget to bring along:

• Clothing to keep warm and/or dry, 
• Waterproof gear (i.e. dry bag, raincoat). 
• Sun protection for sunny days, as you can get sunburnt very easily at this altitude (I learned this the hard way).

What birds can you see at KPHQ?

Kinabalu Park HQ is famous for its avian diversity, including many species that can only be found in Borneo’s mountains. Some of the birds you may see here include (again, names in bold indicate Bornean endemics):

1. The Whitehead’s Trogon, Broadbill and Spiderhunter, collectively known as the Whitehead’s Trio. Undoubtedly the most sought-after birds at KPHQ.
2. Everett’s Thrush – A shy thrush usually only seen deep within jungle trails.
3. Fruithunter – An awesomely named thrush found only in Borneo’s mountains.
4. Red-breasted and Crimson-headed Partridges.
5. Bornean Treepie and Bornean Green-Magpie – colourful members of the crow family.
6. Pale-faced, Bornean and Penan Bulbuls.
7. Raptors such as the Mountain Serpent-Eagle and Besra.
8. Little Pied, Pygmy, Snowy-browed and Indigo Flycatchers, as well as the Eyebrowed Jungle-Flycatcher.
9. Chestnut-hooded, Sunda and Bare-headed Laughingthrushes.

Birdwatching at Timpohon Gate

Timpohon Gate is located 4.5 km from the park entrance, at an elevation of around 1800 m asl. For birdwatchers, this means a chance to see higher-elevation species typically absent from the main HQ area. These include:

• Mountain Black-eye 
• Sunda Bush Warbler
• Pale-faced Bulbul 
• Island Thrush (very rarely)

Unfortunately, the only way to go to Timpohon Gate for birdwatching is by walking there. Previously, private vehicles were allowed up; however, this is currently not possible. Back in 2019, there were shuttle services available from the entrance area to Timpohon Gate (all you needed to do was register at the park office; this service cost RM 15 one-way). I’m not certain whether this shuttle is still available now. 

Update October 2023:

You can go birdwatching at Timpohon Gate via one of these ways:

1. Drive up the main road yourself. However, before you do this, register at the park office near the entrance gate. Simply explain your intention to go birdwatching. There is a RM 100 deposit, and you’ll be issued special lanyards.
2. Take the park’s shuttle service. Enquire and register at the park office.
3. Walk up and down!

Tip: You can take the shuttle service one-way and go birdwatching at Timpohon Gate. Subsequently, walk down the road back, while continuing to look for birds.

If you decide to walk all the way, allow yourself plenty of time for the return walk. As previously mentioned, there is a steep section of the road about mid-way. Finally, Timpohon Gate is the last place accessible for birdwatchers. Areas beyond the gate are reserved only for Mount Kinabalu climbers (and park staff).

More Information

For more information on the birds of Kinabalu Park HQ, head over to the pages linked below:

• The Star Birds of Kinabalu National Park – The Whitehead’s Trio
• Birds of Kinabalu Park – Part 1: Common endemics
• Birds of Kinabalu Park – Part 2: Miscellaneous endemics

Look out for future articles highlighting more birds that can be seen there.

Conclusion

Birdwatching at Kinabalu Park HQ provides opportunities for the visiting birdwatcher to see many Bornean endemic species. This includes highly sought-after birds such as the Whitehead’s Trio. Birdwatching here is generally easy and relaxing, thanks to the excellent road/trail network and cool weather. However, more challenging jungle trails are also available for those seeking more adventure.

Part 2 will provide general information for birdwatchers coming to Kinabalu Park HQ (when to go, how to go, entrance fees, accommodation options, etc).

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References:

Phillipps, Q. & Phillipps, K. (2014). Phillips’ Field Guide To The Birds of Borneo. Sabah, Sarawak, Brunei and Kalimantan (Third edition). John Beaufoy Publishing, Oxford, England.