Khao Dinsor in Thailand is famous for being the premier raptor-watching site in Southeast Asia. Nowhere else in the region can one view so many raptors so easily. During the peak migration season, Khao Dinsor sees thousands of raptors passing by in a single day. Unsurprisingly, watching raptors at Khao Dinsor has been a longstanding wish of mine. Recently, I was finally able to visit this legendary location. And it was undoubtedly a trip to remember.
Watching Raptors at Khao Dinsor – Trip Report
Before the trip
The trip first came about almost six months ago when it was announced by the Malaysia Nature Society Selangor Branch Bird Group (SBBG). Having missed out on the previous trip to Khao Dinsor, I couldn’t let this opportunity pass by again, so I promptly registered. I would be joined by 15 other birders, most of which will visit Khao Dinsor for the first time.
A quick research revealed that the raptor species seen there depends on the time of year. In our case, the trip coincides with the peak of the Black Baza migration. Therefore, thousands of said birds will be expected. Additionally, there’s also a higher chance for the Short-toed Snake-Eagle. It’s on!
Journey to Chumphon
Our journey began on 24th October 2024. First, we made our way to Chumphon, Thailand. This was the closest big town to Khao Dinsor and where we would be staying. Our overland journey took close to two days, as train schedules necessitated staying overnight at Hat Yai. The train journey was followed by a 500 km chartered van ride. Mercifully, the vans were very comfortable, allowing us to enjoy the journey and also birdwatch along the way. Indeed, I scored my first lifer of the trip this way – an Indochinese Roller perched by the road!
First day at Khao Dinsor
Pencil Hill
We finally began watching raptors at Khao Dinsor on the 26th of October. Khao Dinsor (a.k.a Pencil Hill) itself was about 20 km north of Chumphon. At the entrance was a small but well-maintained visitors centre. There were numerous informational signages and photos throughout the facility. And, of course, the all-important toilet, which was also the only toilet at Khao Dinsor.
Hill Hike
While all of us were aware a bit of hiking was required at Khao Dinsor, many of us were surprised by the relatively arduous climb. First up was a set of steep steps that led to viewing platform one. This platform was located on a ledge facing the Gulf of Thailand. Since it was easier to access this platform, it was rather crowded when we first arrived.
Platform Two
Despite being slightly out of breath, several of us quickly decided to head over to the second platform. Also known as Eagle Cliff, this viewpoint provided better viewing angles since it faced north. Besides, I wasn’t keen to wave around a long telephoto lens on a crowded platform anyway.
This time, the trek was longer and involved walking on rough gravel/dirt paths. The incline wasn’t as steep, but it seemed to go up indefinitely. And the hot sun certainly didn’t help. It took us an additional 20 minutes to reach Eagle Cliff. But as we soon found out, it was utterly worth it.
Dinsor’s Dinosaurs (technically, raptors are dinosaurs)
From the Eagle Cliff platform, the view was breathtaking, and there was hardly anyone else. Initially, only a few raptors were flying. The sun was beating down, so we waited in the little bit of shade that was present. We didn’t have to wait long for Dinsor’s flying dinosaurs, though.
Soon enough, the spectacle started. We could see hundreds of raptors in the sky, some thermalling, some soaring, and others zooming past. This was a jaw-dropping moment for me and my companions. That arduous climb we just did? Instantly forgotten!
The Raptors at Khao Dinsor
Boat-loads of Bazas
The most numerous of the raptors at Khao Dinsor during our trip was undoubtedly the Black Baza. These attractive black-and-white raptors flew past in flocks of two to three hundred strong. Sometimes, the birds approached below eye level and rose up with the thermals right in front of us, like attack helicopters taking off vertically. A sight to behold, indeed!
As if their sheer numbers weren’t impressive enough, the flocks also occasionally flew upwards in spiral patterns, forming ‘Baza tornadoes’ that have to be seen to be believed.
Aerobatic Accipiters
Unlike the Black Bazas, the sparrowhawks, or Accipiters*, passed by singly or in small groups. They often appeared suddenly from below and then quickly zoomed past the platform. As a result, these aerobatic aeronauts were challenging to photograph. Occasionally, however, one would hang in the wind momentarily, allowing us to photograph them.
During our trip, we saw four different types, including the rare Besra. The four were similar in appearance to each other, which led to plenty of identification conundrums.
*The genus Accipiter has recently been revised, and all the sparrowhawks we spotted at Khao Dinsor now belong to the genus Tachyspiza.
Butastur Buzzards
Next were the Grey-faced Buzzards. They resemble the sparrowhawks but are slightly larger with longer, pointed wings. They flew past us in small, widely-spaced groups, so they’re a bit easier to photograph.
Larger Raptors
The throngs of smaller raptors were frequently escorted by larger birds-of-prey. These included the Oriental Honey-Buzzards, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Greater Spotted Eagle and Jerdon’s Baza. The Eagle Cliff platform gave us amazing views of these raptors, some of which flew past at eye level.
Raptor Rarities
Hidden amongst the unending flocks were the rarer raptors of Khao Dinsor. Right from the start, we were carefully scanning the passing flocks, hoping for something special. And happily, our vigilance was duly rewarded. Even on the first day, we managed to score several stellar species. First, a Booted Eagle tried to sneak past us, appearing like a honey-buzzard. Then, soaring high up was a Eurasian Hobby, a smaller cousin of the Peregrine Falcon. And finally, for the coup-de-grace? A Short-toed Snake-Eagle*, of course!
*Admittedly, we only confirmed the Short-toed Snake-Eagle two days after the encounter. The photo wasn’t great, but enough for positive identification, with the help of an experienced Taiwanese bird guide we met there.
Subsequent Days
We went watching for raptors at Khao Dinsor for a total of 4 days, with only the third day being truncated due to rain. Each day’s itinerary was similar to the first – breakfast, climb up, watch raptors. Even though many of us climbed all the way to Eagle Cliff every day, the trek became easier and easier, as our legs acclimatised to the ascent.
Every session gave us something new, which made repeating the arduous climb worthwhile. For example, we got our Besra on the second day. And on our third day we finally experienced the ‘river of raptors’, where countless Black Bazas ‘streamed’ past Khao Dinsor. The birds were so numerous that the horizon was filled with tiny black dots! A mind-blowing sight indeed, one that we won’t soon forget.
Heading Home
All too soon, our trip was over. We concluded our trip on the 29th evening and departed Chumphon via overnight sleeper train. It took me pretty much the whole day to reach Kuala Lumpur. Nevertheless, I couldn’t help but smile whenever I recall the experience I’d just had. Not just the amazing raptors at Khao Dinsor but, just as importantly, the fantastic companions I had the pleasure of sharing this trip with.
Summary of Sightings
In all, we saw a total of 21 species of raptors at Khao Dinsor. Highlights include (names in bold indicate my lifers):
- Four Tachyspiza species, which were the Shikra, Japanese Sparrowhawk, Chinese Sparrowhawk and Besra.
- The Short-toed Snake-Eagle was a mega-lifer for us (those who saw it, anyway).
- Two Butastur species: the numerous Grey-faced Buzzard and a single Rufous-winged Buzzard. The Rufous-winged was a pleasant surprise since it’s rare at Khao Dinsor.
- Unending flocks of Black Bazas.
- Impressive numbers of Jerdon’s Baza, with their broad, paddle-shaped wings and fluttering flight.
- Large numbers of Oriental Honey-Buzzards.
- Black Kite
- Greater Spotted Eagle, and Booted Eagle
- Eastern Marsh and Pied Harriers
- Osprey
- Two falcon species – the Eurasian Hobby, as well as the Eurasian Kestrel. We would have missed the Hobby entirely if not for an eagle-eyed member of our group.
Other interesting birds:
In addition to the raptors at Khao Dinsor, we also spotted the following birds elsewhere:
- A Peregrine Falcon was spotted near the Morakot Hotel in Chumphon.
- Vinous-breasted Myna and Racket-tailed Treepie.
- House Sparrow
- Numerous migrating Black Drongos, Bee-eaters, Needletails, and Asian House-Martins.
- Finally, and possibly my favourite bird of the trip, wasn’t technically a raptor. Instead, it was a diurnal owl – An Asian Barred Owlet. It was seen near Jingjo Hotel in Chumphon.
Miscellaneous stats:
- Distance from visitor centre to Eagle Cliff: ±1.5 km
- Number of Black Bazas seen over the four days: >20,000, probably many more.
- The collective number of photographs taken by our group was definitely more than the Black Bazas.
- The number of times the Oriental Honey-Buzzards fooled us into thinking it was something rare: embarrassingly high.
- Times the name ‘Snake-toed Short-Eagle’ was uttered: 2
- Number of times the correct genus name Tachyspiza was used (instead of Accipiter): 0
Conclusion
My journey to watch the migrating raptors at Khao Dinsor was certainly worth the effort. The spectacular sight of thousands of raptors wheeling around in the sky will undoubtedly remain long in my memory. Of course, the trip wouldn’t be nearly as enjoyable without such amazing travelling companions. Hopefully, I’ll get the chance to see the raptors at Khao Dinsor again in the future!
