For birders looking to see open-country birds in Sabah, there’s no better choice than birdwatching at Tempasuk Plains. This location is one of the best places in Sabah to observe migratory birds such as harriers, shorebirds, and egrets. Moreover, lucky birders may even stumble upon rare or vagrant avian visitors. Best of all, this birdwatching hotspot is less than two hours drive away from the state capital, Kota Kinabalu. 

Birdwatching at Tempasuk Plains, Sabah

This article’s information is mainly derived from my two visits here, in July and October 2023. Additionally, eBird and the indispensable Phillips’ Field Guide to the Birds of Borneo serve as the main reference sources.

What are the Tempasuk Plains?

The ‘Tempasuk Plains’ refer to an area of paddyfields bordering the northern part of Kota Belud town. These paddyfields straddle the flat terrain between the foot of Mount Kinabalu and the shores of the South China Sea. Unlike many paddyfields in Peninsular Malaysia, the fields here are managed on a much smaller scale. This means the paddyfields are less industrialised and thus more appealing to visiting birds. Bonus: the Tempasuk Plains are more scenic than any Peninsular Malaysia paddyfields!

How is the birdwatching experience here? 

Birding here typically involves covering large distances by car, as the plains are quite vast. Simply drive along the picturesque roads and stop when bird activity is high (in other words, drive-and-stop birding). The roads are single-lane and well-maintained, so accessibility is good. Traffic is relatively low (typical country road traffic), and some sections have laybys to park.

Birds are typically attracted to wet field plots, so look out for those. Tractors doing earth tilling work will also attract large flocks of birds, especially egrets. There doesn’t seem to be any specific harvesting/planting schedule here, so some plots are always unplanted. The plots with fully grown paddy will be difficult to bird at, as the birds will be hidden amongst the plants.

The birds are often relatively distant, similar to birdwatching along mudflats. Therefore, a spotting scope and/or long telephoto lenses are of great benefit.

What birds to look for when birdwatching at Tempasuk Plains?

Birds seen here typically prefer open areas and freshwater wetlands. They can be divided into four groups (the lists below are non-exhaustive):

Common migratory species (present during the northern winter):

1. Freshwater-loving shorebirds include the Common Greenshank, Black-tailed Godwit, Long-toed and Temminck’s Stints, Snipes, Black-winged Stilt, Marsh Sandpiper and Wood Sandpiper. These are usually seen in/around the wetter areas.
2. Oriental Pratincole
3. Pacific Golden, Kentish and Little-ringed Plovers
4. Whiskered and White-winged Terns
5. Raptors such as the Eastern Marsh Harrier and Peregrine Falcon.
6. Eastern Yellow Wagtail

Uncommon/rare migrants:

1. Garganey
2. Oriental Plover
3. Pied Stilt
4. Ruff
5. Green Sandpiper

Vagrants:

1. Black-faced Spoonbill
2. Migrant ducks, such as the Northern Shoveler, Tufted Duck and Green-winged Teal.
3. Pheasant-tailed Jacana
4. Pied Avocet

Residents (seen year-round):

1. Wandering Whistling-Ducks are typically seen at flooded plots.
2. Waterbirds like the Buff-banded Rail, Black-backed Swamphen, Common Moorhen and White-browed Crake also prefer the wetter areas. They are quite difficult to spot amongst the vegetation.
3. Greater Painted-Snipe
4. Black-winged and Brahminy Kites
5. A variety of egrets and herons (some are also migratory).
6. Yellow and Cinnamon Bitterns
7. The Striated Grassbird and Long-tailed Shrike are occasionally seen perching on the telecommunications cables.
8. Dusky Munia, a Bornean endemic species.
9. Paddyfield Pipit

Photos of birds seen at Tempasuk Plains

How to go birdwatching at Tempasuk Plains:

Tempasuk Plains is located near Kota Belud town, about 75 km northeast of Kota Kinabalu city centre. The paddyfields are easily explored on a day trip from Kota Kinabalu.

Directions:

• From Kota Kinabalu, make your way to Kota Belud. Use navigation apps or simply follow the road signs.
• Drive time is roughly 1.5 – 2 hours, depending on traffic.
• From Kota Belud, search for ‘Lurus Izat’ or ‘Kampung Sangkir’ on Google Maps. These spots are good places to start exploring the paddyfields.
• Alternatively, go directly to the above locations from Kota Kinabalu.
• From there, drive around and look for birds! 
• Personal transport or rental vehicles are essential to explore this place. 

Timing for birdwatching at Tempasuk Plains.

• Migrant birds are typically present during the northern winter season (from late August until early May). 
• Some species are only passage migrants, so look for them during the passage season (Sept-Oct; Apr-May). This is also likely the best time to chance upon rarities/vagrants. 
• Early mornings and late afternoons are the best times
• It can get really hot by noon, and there’s no shelter in the area (apart from your car).
• The heat haze during midday can impair your views and photos.

Public amenities nearby:

Public amenities (food options, convenience stores) are available along the main road from Kota Belud to Kudat (AH 150). 

• Check out Teratak Anak Kampung, a small cafe by the paddyfield. It’s a decent place for hot food and fantastic views. Opens from 2 pm.

Kota Belud town is only a few minutes away and offers more food options, public toilets, and gas stations.

Those wanting to stay overnight can find accommodation at/near Kota Belud:

• TD Lodge Kota Belud
• Mountain View Guest House
• Taun Gusi Village Homestay 

Staying overnight allows visitors to experience the famous sunrise view of Mount Kinabalu with the paddyfields in the foreground.

More information

For more information on other Sabah birdwatching locations, head over to the link below:

• Sabah Birdwatching Locations

Conclusion

Birdwatching at Tempasuk Plains provides some of the best opportunities to observe a variety of open country birds. A plethora of migratory and resident species frequent the paddyfields; moreover, Tempasuk is also one of the best places in Sabah to encounter rarities. The stunning scenery doesn’t hurt, either. Indeed, a birdwatching trip to the Tempasuk Plains deserves to be on any birder’s itinerary!

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REFERENCES

Phillipps, Q. & Phillipps, K. (2014). Phillips’ Field Guide To The Birds of Borneo. Sabah, Sarawak, Brunei and Kalimantan (Third edition). John Beaufoy Publishing, Oxford, England.

Puan, C.L., Davison, G. & Lim, K.C. (2020). Birds of Malaysia. Covering Peninsular Malaysia, Malaysian Borneo and Singapore. Lynx and BirdLife International Field Guides. Lynx Edicions, Barcelona.